Bias-woven tapes are bi-stretch tapes cut diagonally to the main weft of the fabric. Suitable for straight or curved garment trims, this simple accessory is a popular solution for its easy and versatile application.
The term “bias” comes from the French word “bias”, which means “diagonal”.
How bias tapes are made
After the textile plant has been set up and loaded onto the loom, the threads are woven in high definition to create large pieces. The fabric is then subjected to bias cutting, i.e., inclined by 45°, which gives it a bi-directional elastic effect. The dual elasticity allows the ribbons to be folded along the length.
Using bias tapes
The diagonal cut makes it easy to follow curves and corners for a refined finish to garment details. They are usually applied to cover visible hems, pocket edges, seams and lining seams. In addition to being an efficient solution, bias tapes allow the creation of unique decorative details for each tailoring project.
Endless customisations
Bias ribbons can be adapted to application and style requirements. We make them in various patterns – floral, regimental, polka dots, houndstooth, cashmere designs, etc. – and on designs supplied by the customer. They can also be customised with the brand’s logo, in which case, contrasts are created by the shiny/matt weave, endowing the piping with an iridescent self-coloured effect.
To mention some unusual variants, when one hears the slang term “rat tail”, it refers to a specific processing of bias tapes in which, simultaneously with the central fold, a variable core thickness is inserted to convey a raised effect.
Generally, the colour range available, the type of yarns and the additional processes allow to play with creativity to add an elegant, unique and refined touch to bespoke tailoring.
Application on garments
At the end of processing, the product can be delivered to the customer either as a cut ribbon, ready to be applied on the garment, or folded on both sides. The latter version is usually preferred for the application of visible bias tape, e.g., to cover seams.
